I installed a IIWEY N5 dashcam in my 2001 Ferrari 360 Spider by hardwiring it to the fuse box and a ground. This dashcam has 3 cameras. One faces forward like you’d expect a dashcam to, and 2 cameras are adjustable. I have one camera pointing towards the cockpit, mostly the passenger, and one facing to the left of the car, because the camera is behind the mirror. It also comes with an optional rear facing camera, but I haven’t figured out where I will put that, since my 360 is usually driven top down. Wiring in the reverse camera looks simple though, you just attach it to the dashcam itself, no additional power source needed.

Parts and Tools Required

• IIWEY N5 dashcam
• USB-CHardwire install kit - shorter if doing constant power, much longer than 13ft if doing switched power
• Trim tool - useful for hiding wires
• Philips head screwdriver

To hardwire a dashcam on the 360, you can choose to do switched power (dashcam only comes on when the car is on), or constant power (dash cam is always on). Switched is beneficial because you’ll never drain your battery, and constant is useful if you want the dashcam recording ever when you’re stopped, such as in a parking lot. I’ll show you how to do both.

There’s also a 3rd, less cool option, which is to plug it into your cigarette lighter in the center console, but that’s not as clean. The IIWEY N5 dashcam came with an accessory cord if you want to use this route.

Option 1 - Switched Power

For switched power, there is a good location in the fuse box behind the passenger seat. Remove the carpeted section behind the passenger seat, and remove the fuse box cover closest to the center console. The top left fuse here is a 15A that is the radio, and it is on switched power. You can use a fuse tap here, use any ground near the fuse box, then route your wiring up to the windshield. The downside of this is that you’ll need a fairly long install cable to reach from here to the windshield.

Option 2 - Constant Power

This is how I installed mine mostly due to having too short of a cable to do switched. I bought this hardwire install kit which is 13 feet long, and originally tried to use the same fuse mentioned above behind the passenger seat. I quickly found out 13 feet was not long enough to run the cable and hide it well, so I pivoted to using a different fuse behind the glove box. If you can find a longer hardwire install kit, you can run it to the switched power source mentioned above.

So I ran the included fuse tap to a 7.5A fuse I found behind the glove box (above). I also used a ground near held in by a Torx20 screw (below). Do note that the cable I bought has low voltage protection, so it will stop providing power to the cameras once the battery drops below 11.6V. This way my car will always be able to start, but can keep the dashcam running while parked for extended periods of time too.

Hide the Wires

For tucking the wires, I hid most of them behind the glovebox and the A-pillar area. I did have some difficulty getting wiring behind the top of the windshield area, and found that backing out the 2 Phillips screws on the wind visors gave some wiggle room to tuck the wires better. Then just tighten the screws back up.

Feedback

I like that this dashcam came with multiple mount options and protectors for your windshield, so there will be no damage to the (presumably very expensive) glass. It also came with an adapter to use accessory power if you choose to, and the rear view camera wires in easily as well. The best part, and the reason I picked the Iwey N5 is because of the multiple cameras and adjustable cameras.

The user interface is easy to use, there are 5 buttons below the screen. When you first start using the dashcam, you should format the SD card. I also updated my settings to use 1440P for the front facing camera, the default was only 1080pp.

The IIWEY app for your phone seems fine. To get your videos, turn on the Wifi on your dashcam, connect, and you can browse and download the videos to your phone. Or you could remove the microSD card and pop it into your computer.

This is the view from the drivers seat, you can barely see the dashcam!

I fixed the A/C in my 2001 Ferrari 360 Spider, it had never worked under my ownership of 3+ years.

This was a multi-step process. First, I realized I had a major leak in the A/C when I would add freon and it would immediately evacuate. I narrowed down the leak by adding UV dye and checking with a UV flashlight for leaks.

There are multiple potential spots for leaks on a Ferrari 360 A/C system. There is the compressor, which is accessible both under the car and behind the access panel to the engine and belts behind the seats. There is the drier filter and high and low pressure lines, which are behind a panel in the frunk. There are the fill ports, which are under an easier to access panel in the frunk. And there is the condenser, which is behind the front bumper. I narrowed it down to having leaks in the frunk and on the compressor. I saw no leaks on my condenser, so luckily I did not have to remove the front bumper.

My main leak was on the fitting to the compressor, which was installed about a year ago by a local shop. Removing the compressor was probably the most difficult and annoying job I’ve ever performed on any car. It involved reaching multiple 0-visibility 6mm hex screws with almost no room to work, and you have to use a stubby allen key. You have to loosen the tensionor pulley and remove the belt. It also involved removing the motor mounts in order to get access to loosen a bolt. Yeah, you read that right.

I had to remove the motor mounts. Which were shot anyways, so I replaced them. And when you replace them, the bolt and nut that go through the middle of the motor mount should be replaced, and use a massive 24mm on both sides. So you need both a 24mm socket, which I had, and a 24mm wrench, which I had to buy, to hold it on the other side. You can re-use the washers and the 17mm bolts. Once the hardware is removed from the motor mounts, you jack up the engine with some wood to raise it a bit, then slide in and install the new mounts.

Once the compressor was out, I replaced a few o-rings there.

In the frunk, I replaced the drier filter, which is a every 2 year recommended replacement. I had to buy a 19mm wrench for that. While removing the drier filter, I also broke the high pressure fill line, which is a part that doesn’t seem to be available new anymore, so I purchased a used one of those for $285, downsides of owning an older Ferrari. While testing the A/C, I found I had leaks on the new drier filter, so I re-seated it with new o-rings.

I also replaced the high and low pressure fill valves. And the o-rings to the high and low pressure ports.

And while I had the compressor out, I painted the heat shield for the compressor with a few coats of high temp black.

Before refitting the rear undertray, I cleaned off the bottom of the engine from an old coolant leak with some brake clean and a wire brush.

All in all, I replaced:

• 7 o-rings - $15
• 2 motor mounts - $380
• 2 motor mount bolts - $20
• 2 motor mount nuts -$15
• A/C belt - $25
• Used high pressure line - $285 from an Exotic salvage yard
• Drier filter - $123
• Charcoal filter - $55

Tools required:

• I added probably $60 of R134 to both my car and the garage floor. I used cans with UV dye mostly.
• 24mm wrench - $10
• 19mm wrench - $10
• A/C manifold set - $130
• U/V flashlight - $13
• I built 4x wood cribs in order to work safely under my car since I don’t have a lift. This was so helpful since I spent many many hours under the car and needed to be safe.

This puts my total at about $1,000 in materials and $200 in reusable tools, and $0 in labor. It would have added a few thousand in labor if I took it to a shop, which I have twice before, and neither time did I come home with a working A/C system. I estimated that I spent about 20 hours on this project, and I’m happy to save that money for the next project.

Useful Links:

• Video walkthrough of most steps on the Ferrari 360
• How to recharge A/C system
• Replace A/C parts on a F430, not the same but similar
• Debugging Steps from FChat
• DIY on FChat

I upgraded the $20 bluetooth headunit that I put into my Ferrari 360 Spider in 2023 with a Power Acoustik CP-71WA CarPlay and Android Auto deck for only $160. This headunit is currently only sold at Walmart and is a single DIN size that fits perfect where the factory 360 radio is, and brings some nice modern updates to an aging car. It does both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, wired and wirelessly, along with Bluetooth and AM/FM radio. Here is my old radio when I pulled it out:

Headunit Install

To install the headunit, remove your existing radio with the 2 included radio removal tools, they just slide on the left and right side of the deck. This is where a normal Ferrari 360 install will be different, you can apparently buy a wiring harness to reduce cutting or splicing of wires, or to make the install reversible. However, my car had a badly installed aftermarket stereo when I bought it and the entire factory wiring harness was cut, along with new speaker wires run to each of the 4 speakers, and a massive aftermarket amp installed in the frunk, so I don’t mind some cutting and cleaning up.

I had upgraded the headunit that came with my car in 2023 to one with Bluetooth, but I never got all the speakers working correctly. I also replaced the old huge amp (that at one point powered a subwoofer) with a smaller 4-channel amp from Kenwood at that time.

Anyways, to install this headunit, it’s just 4 wires, (power, ACC, ground, antenna), which were the same 4 wires I spliced last time for my last headunit, so it was simple to match like for like and splice those to a new wiring harness.

Speakers

Once I got my headunit hooked up to power, I have 2x RCA cables that run from the headunit to the amp in the frunk. The amp is then wired to the 4 speakers in the car (2x 6.5” speakers in the door and 2x 1” tweeters in the triangles on top of each door). I could only get one set working at a time, so I ended up deciding to only use 1 channel on my amp and replace the very old dual channel speakers with a set of Component Speakers.

What this does is let you use 1 speaker wire to hook into a 2-way crossover device, then that crossover sends the correct signal to a 6.5” speaker and a 1” speaker. This is good so that your big speakers gets the mids and lows, and the tweeters gets the highs. So 1 wire feeds 2 different sized speakers.

I purchased these Recoil REM65 component speakers, which was the perfect setup for the 360 due to including the correct size speakers, tweeters, and required crossover. Once I plugged them all in to the door channel speaker wire, all 4 speakers were working and at the same volume per side, now I just needed to adjust my audio settings.

Amp setup

For adjusting my Kenwood amp, some of the settings needed to dialed in for the sound to come through the new speakers great. I set:

• Input sensitivity set 1
• Frequency filter set to 50 (so bass comes through the 6.5” speakers, sounded very tiny before lowering that).
• Channel B (only channel used) set to no LPF and no HPF, so no filtering of frequencies, all sounds will come through all speakers.

Once all these settings were adjusted, the sound coming out of the 4 new speakers was great! My amp is hidden behind the frunk liner where the stock CD changer used to sit, so it’s a bit of a hassle to get to, so I wanted to make sure it was perfect before re-installing the frunk carpets.

Update Boot Logo

The Power Acoustik Boot Logo is not cool, so why not make it show a Ferrari logo? Or whatever car you’re putting it in. Ben Clark from the 360 Owner Facebook group made a great Dropbox of Ferrari boot logos. Find the boot logo you want, take it to https://png2jpg.com/ to convert it to a .jpg, then take the file and rename it “changelogo.jpg”, or if you like the one I used, just download it below.

Then take a FAT32 formatted USB stick, drop the file on it, and hook it up to the long USB cable on the back of your headunit (I ran this cable into a new hole I drilled in my glove box). Go to Settings > Update Boot screen. If that option doesn’t exist, you might be on an older, pre-2.0, firmware, and can update your firmware to get this option.

Conclusion

So for just about $220 all in, I got a full set of new speakers and a single DIN Android Auto headunit. I can do wireless music, it has a mic button so I can tell it to change to an exact song or get directions, and it looks great in my Ferrari 360 Spider.

I have a one car garage that I spend a lot of time in, and I figured I should invest some time and money in to making it nice to use.

Lights

One of the first things I did was install 6x Barrina 4ft LED lights, I did this shortly after moving in, it only cost $50 or so, and the lights are so bright. I paired it with a Amazon Smart Plug on the same outlet as my garage door opener, so I can turn on my garage lights by saying “Alexa, garage lights on”. I also set a schedule that Alexa turns them off every day at 10PM.

Organization

I have 4 jack stands which always take up floor room, so I bought a pair of jack stand wall mounts to keep all 4 of them off the ground. You can see the jack stand holder in this picture to the left of my cabinet, and also how unorganized the garage used to be.

I also bought a power tool organizer to hold my growing number of Ryobi tools.

My tool box is pretty great, it was like $100 on Facebook Marketplace many years ago. I have it labelled, which helps finding stuff, but I also bought this set of tool box organizer inserts to keep it better organized. This way I have my metric separated from imperial sockets, flathead separated from phillips screwdrivers, all my assorted hardware is better organized by type, etc. This set was big enough to organize 2-3 tool boxes, so you can share leftovers with your friends and family.

I also bought this new garage storage cabinet, which holds everything I need and looks good. I wanted to get a nicer Husky cabinet, but they were $500 and the sales when they drop to $250 only lasted for a few hours and I could never catch them, so I settled for this one for $140 and I’m happy with it.

And of course, one of the best things you can do to organize your garage and car stuff is to build a shed and put all your non-car stuff in it.

Floor

My inside A/C unit is located in the garage, and the A/C drain line ran all the way across the floor and out that side of the house. I didn’t like seeing that PVC running across my garage floor, so I re-routed the drain line to run parallel to the wall that the A/C is already on. I had to drill a big hole through concrete to run the drain outside, and it drain into a planter on my front porch. I was able to re-use my Safe-T switch, so the only cost for this was about $10 in PVC. I made sure to do this before my floors were coated so that the install would look super clean.

Before - drain line running across the floor

After - drain line runs along the wall

The biggest expense, by far, was the floor. I hired GarageExperts of Brevard to install a new flooring, and I compared 4 different companies. Not only was GarageExperts the cheapest, but I liked their process the best, or tied for the best. Weirdly, the most expensive company only used epoxy. Apparently, epoxy is not as durable as polyaspartic, so since I work on cars in my garage, I need polyaspartic. Epoxy can also yellow over time. The process GarageExperts followed, and a few of the other quotes I had, was to sand and grind the whole garage floor down, fill in any divots, paint the floor in epoxy, throw tons of flake on, wait a bit, knock any excess flake that didn’t stick off, and do a final top coat of polyaspartic. The result was wonderful and the cost was $2,000 for my 378 square foot garage, minus the A/C and cabinet (quoted for 324 sqft). I was quoted $2,000, $2,300, $3,200 and $3,300 for my floors. So it definitely paid off to get multiple quotes. I almost decided not to do my floors when I got my first quote of $3,300, and I’m glad I kept looking.

Garage floor before

Garage floor after

Once the floor was done, I had to wait a few days to move everything back in, but once I did I tried to optimize my storage, especially around my washer/dryer area. I was able to shove them even further into the corner and get a few extra inches in my garage by redoing the washer drain!

Final Things

I found a metal junction box with live power in it that wasn’t being used, so I wired that into 4 outlets, then bought an electronic drum set to use there. I also brought some old rugs from my wife’s massage business, Mimosa Tree Massage, and used those as drum and “laundry room” rugs.

A few things I did once we purchased the house were to put a tennis ball hanging from the ceiling, so I never pulled too far forward, and to put pool noodles on the walls, so that the doors don’t hit the concrete walls. Total cost for those was $0.

I put an extra Alexa in the garage, and hooked up the audio output to some Edifier speakers I’ve had for a while, so I can jam out while I’m working on the cars.

And 2 final things I did were to install a rubber threshold seal for the floor under the garage door, and a P bulb garage door bottom seal. I only needed 9 feet due to being a 1 car garage. The bottom seal involved measuring, marking, caulking, then letting it sit for a day to cure. This step is DEFINITELY needed - I thought I could go without it once my floors were redone, but the first week after completion, it rained. The rain hit my garage door, then ran under the door, and I found a pretty big puddle in the morning.

This bottom threshold helped, but didn’t prevent it as I found out, as my existing garage doors seal was cut about a foot short for some reason previously. So I bought the P bulb style seal due to the bottom of my door just having a single track for a seal (as opposed to 2 which seems more common). I removed the old seal but cutting it out with an exacto knife, then cleaned it and lubed the track with WD-40 before sliding the new seal in. Finally, I cut the seal, and adjusted the opening height of my garage door due to the difference in the height in the old and new seal. And THIS actually kept water out of my garage during heavy rain.

So that’s how I turned my little garage into a great new workspace that looks much better.

I replaced the factory steering wheel in my Ferrari 360 wheel for pretty cheap. This procedure should work for all Ferrari 360s and the airbag equipped models of the Ferrari 355. Note that I do lose my airbag here - that’s not a complaint, as my air bag is 25 years old and I don’t trust that it still works anyways.

Parts Needed:

• Hill Engineering Momo Boss Hub(SWS-355B F355 Steering Wheel Spacer)
• Momo Steering Wheel - I got one with yellow stitching to match my interior
• 3.3 ohm .5 watt resistor, or similar
• Horn Button - my steering wheel came with a Momo button, but I used a Ferrari Prancing Horse button instead. A 58mm horn button fit perfect.
• Blue Loctite

Tools

• T30 TamperProof / Security Torx Bit - this is used for 2 screws on your factory steering wheel
• Hex 5mm bit or Allen Key

This is a pretty simple install.

First, turn off your battery! You are working with the airbag which can be dangerous if it has power. You have a battery cutoff switch in the frunk. I like to lay a blanket covering the the frunk/bumper area so I don’t accidentally close the frunk while the power is off.

Then, pop the covers off on the backside of your steering wheel, your fingers should work, if not a small flat head will.

Remove the 2x Torx 30 security screws.

This is all that is holding your air bag in, so disconnect it now.

Remove the 4x 5mm Hex bolts holding on the steering wheel, marked in blue paint on my picture.

Disconnect the 2 connectors (ground and power for the horn buttons) and remove the steering wheel.

Your next step is to install the Boss Hub adapter, however I think it’d be easiest to go ahead and hook up a connector to ground. My steering wheel came with 2 spade connectors on wires - hook a wire up to ground to make that connection longer for your new horn button.

Then install your boss hub, routing the 3 wires (ground, power, airbag) through the hub. There are 4x 5mm Hex screws that attach it to the factory mounting point - use a tiny bit of blue loctite on it when installing. I didn’t torque these, but they’re on pretty snug.

Almost done! Your hub is on, time to install the wheel using the 6 included Hex screws. Mine came with 6 short and 6 longer screws, I used the longer ones and installed in a star pattern, just hand tight.

Finally, you have the 3 connections to make. For your air bag, put the resistor across the 2 leads and either electrical tape or heat shrink it. This will trick the Airbag ECU to think an air bag is installed, so it won’t show an air bag light on your dash. I have read that resistors near 3.3 ohms will work to mimic the resistance in the factory air bag, however ones as high as 10ohms did not work. Various Fchat threads indicated that 3ohm, 3.3ohm and 4.7ohm resistors worked. If you don’t have a resistor, your air bag light will light up on the dash.

For the other two connectors, the one we added the extension to is your ground, this goes on the outside of the horn button’s connection. The final one with the stock plastic adapter is the power, I bent the horn power connector a bit to make this fit.

Turn the battery on and test your horn before seating the horn button for good. Done!

I did not have a good connection on my resistor to start, therefore I had the Air Bag light come on. Fortunately, my Autel AP200 with the Ferrari module (an additional $22) was able to read and clear the Air Bag code. I initially tried cutting the leads on the resistor shorter - don’t do that. Use the long leads, put them all the way in, then secure the resistor.

I have now replaced both the left and right secondary hydraulic cylinders on the Ferrari 360 Spider’s convertible top. These are the 2 hydraulics that sit above the drivers and the passengers head. This is how to remove and re-install them. You will also need to send them off to another company to be rebuilt.

First, turn the car on and start lowering the top. Once it releases from the center latch and the top goes back some, turn the car off. Now you can move the top around manually.

Find out which cylinder is leaking. My drivers side leaked first, I replaced it by itself, and my passenger side broke 9 months later. It is recommended to replace them in pairs. This guide only covers the secondary hydraulic cylinders, which are the easiest to repair and the most likely to break.

To remove the cylinder, cut the zip tie holding the hydraulic lines.

Next, you will need to remove the 2 screws holding the hydraulic lines into the cylinder. This part is annoying, since they were already stripped on my car. They need a 2.5mm hex bit, but since mine were rounded into a circle, I found that hammering on a Torx 25 bit on a ratchet, I was able to remove the stripped screws.

Also remove the gold hardware under the screws, if you drop it in the frame, a magnet is useful for fishing it out.

If you want to replace the screws with the Ferrari OEM screw, that’s part number 66683900. I did not, since those parts strip easily, and used 2 new M4-.7x6 Phillips head screws. These are way less likely to strip, since it’s very difficult to get a straight shot on anything because of the hydraulic lines.

Next, remove the 1x Torx 25 bolt on the side of the frame to get access to the retaining pin.

Remove the retaining pin.

To remove the hydraulic from the car, get a 13mm wrench, or a crescent wrench, and loosen the nut near the rear part of it.

Then it should lift out of the car easily. Put some rags around to catch extra hydraulic fluid.

Then ship your hydraulic off to be rebuilt. I have used both Top Hydraulics in Oregon which was $260 for a rebuild, and Cabriolet Hydraulics in Sarasota, FL for $220, which is closer to me for shipping. They both worked well and claim to have better seals than OEM. For shipping, make sure you collapse the hydraulic and drain as much fluid as you can.

For the Ferrari 360 Spider, it has 7 different hydraulics powering the top. The left and right secondary cylinders are apparently the ones that break most often, and are the 2 I have replaced myself. When the elastics in the top fail, these 2 cylinders experience additional stress. I also installed a Elastic Repair Kit from Exotic Specialty Parts, which I’m hoping makes these hydraulic cylinders last longer.

Wait a bit, and when your rebuilt hydraulic cylinder arrives, head back to the garage. For installation, put the retaining pin in. Tighten the 13mm nut back into the shaft. Put the 25mm Torx back on the frame. Install your 2 hydraulic lines. Install your 2 new screws with the factory seating hardware.

Put on another zip tie (has to be Ferrari OEM) and cut it. Finally, fill your hydraulic fluid to the proper level, operate the system a few times, and refill. Always use ZHM fluid.

And now your top should work for another few months!

My Ferrari 360 Spider started leaking oil from the lower oil cover after a rally recently, likely because my car scraped the pavement quite a few times over some bridge crossings. I checked, and one of the screws was nearly ground down to the threads.

So I decided to replace the lower oil cover, while also doing an oil change that I was almost due for anyways.

While I had the undertray off for that work, I also did some significant fibgerlass repair on my undertray. I also ceramic coated the top and bottom of my headers, since I had easy access to them.

Parts and Tools

• Ricambi Oil Change Kit - includes the 2 copper crush washers, one new drain plug, and Ferrari oil filter
• Up to 10L of Oil, I used Liquimoly 5W-40
• Hex Socket Set - you need a 12mm and 14mm hex bit
• Oil Filter Removal Tool - I used this exact tool, and have for all my cars, however there is a Ferrari specific removal tool that might make it easier. But this one DOES work
• 177549 GASKET - 1 of 2 gaskets on the in line filter to replace
• 177550 GASKET - 1 of 2 gaskets on the in line filter to replace
• Lower Oil Cover, P/N 171045 - upgraded Hill Engineering part, much beefier than the OEM cover
• New screws for the Oil Cover x6 - minimum buy of 10 on Ricambi
• Permatex Ultra Black - gasket maker for the lower oil cover
• Blue Loctite - thread locker for the lower oil cover screws
• Grease
• Gloves

First, lift the car however you normally do, and remove the undertray below the engine. There are about 20 screws to remove.

Next, go about a normal oil change procedure. This includes the removing the 2 drain plugs (12mm and 14mm hex).

Remove the in line filter from the gear box with 2x 10mm bolts. I used a small flat head screwdriver to pry the filter out.

Clean this filter, and replace the 2 O-rings with some new grease, I used Red N’ Tacky.

To remove the oil filter on my 360 Spider, I had to remove 2x 10mm bolts on the power steering reservoir, then I was able to finagle my non-Ferrari oil filter removal tool in from one side and get my longest socket extender in from the top. This was an awful oil filter to remove, and I had to be sitting on top of the exhaust to reach it.

Also remove the oil cap so more oil can drain.

Once the oil is done draining, I removed the Lower Oil Cover with 6x 10mm screws, including one that was nearly missing the head. Luckily, I could get it out with my normal sockets. The replacement Hill Engineering cover is noticeably heavier and thicker than the Ferrari OEM part.

I installed some Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker around the perimeter of the inside of the lower oil cover, including around the screw holes. I chose the Ultra Black because it was recommended for anything that could come into contact with oil, whereas the grey didn’t seem to work as well with oil. Another alternative that was recommended is Three Bond 1211.

The instructions for the Ultra Black say to hand tighten anything using this gasket maker, then let it sit for an hour or more, then fully tighten. So I did that by putting all 6 screws in (with some Blue Loctite on each) and using a socket until I felt a slight resistance, let it sit for 2 hours, then tightened until the resistance was higher.

Note that the workshop manual for the Ferrari 360 says to use 25Nm - DO NOT DO THAT. It stripped my first screw directly into the oil pan, and luckily I was able to get it back out with channel locks.

So once you have the lower oil pan cover in, the Ultra Black instructions recommend to let it cure for 24 hours before adding oil. In the mean time, you can go ahead and install your drain plugs. Ricambi includes 1 new drain plug that you should put a new crush washer on, and you will re-use 1 old drain plug, but add a new copper crush washer to it. Again, the factory manual recommends 75NM, but that is way too high, I followed the advice of Aldous and did hand tight plus about 1/4 turn on the socket.

Install your new oil filter, you don’t need to use the tool for this, hand tight as much as you can get is good for filters.

This is a good time to measure how much oil came out of your Ferrari’s engine. Mine measured about 9 quarts, so I’d expect to add that much, but I added a bit less just in case. Then let it warm up after refilling by running the engine or driving. To check the oil, you have to pull the dip stick while the engine is running and while it is warm. Add oil as need be, but be careful not to overfill it.

Check for leaks. I was all good on the first try, thankfully!

Finally, reinstall the undertray, lower the car, and enjoy another year of driving.

While pulling the undertray to replace the oil and lower oil cover, I noticed my undertray was in bad shape. Like, really bad. I already had a few zip ties in holding up, but way worse than I expected. Most of the used undertrays on the market were in equally as bad of shape and were about $1,000, and a new one was over $2,000 shipped, so I decided I could learn how to fix it for much cheaper.

The undertray is made of fiberglass and has cutouts for certain things, like mounting points, rubber grommets for oil drains, and for the jack locations to use with your floor jack or lift. All of the undertray fiberglass surrounding the jack locations were disentigrated, so that was my main focus to fix. There were also a few other little cracks and spots missing materials.

I bought a large fiberglass repair kit on Amazon, which came with fiberglass mat, resin, a hardening compound, scraper and mixing tray and mixing stick. This kit came with enough materials to do 2-3 undertrays, and I will use the leftovers to do repairs on my fiberglass hot tub in the future. I also needed to use a few old paintbrushs to spread the resin on, worse gloves, and used some 3M tape.

Parts

• Bondo Fiberglass Repair Kit - $35
• 3M Aluminum Foil Tape
• Filler Primer Spray Paint
• Black Spray Paint
• Gloves
• Small Paintbrushes
• Sandpaper

My first step was to wash the undertray on both sides, I just sprayed it with the hose, then a degreaser, then scrubbed it, then sprayed it off again and let it dry.

Next, I used the 3M Aluminum Foil Tape to create an outline of what was missing on my undertray, so basically filling in all the broken off pieces. There was a lot of them. I started on the top side of the undertray, so the part which faces up towards the cars engine, which you can only see while the car is off. This way, if I mess up on my first attempt, it won’t be seen anyways.

This is where I started wearing gloves full time. After filling in the broken off pieces, I cut fiberglass mat strips to cover the tape and put them in the correct location. Having the strips pre-cut is ideal, since the resin cures pretty quick, I could do about 10 strips of resin per round.

Once you have your fiberglass strips ready, you can mix your resin and hardener and get started. The recipe on the bottle says to mix 1 oz of resin and 10 drops of hardener, then stir very well. I did not measuere exactly, I just poured some resin in the mixing container that filled it about halfway, added maybe 10-15 drops hardener, then stirred with the wooden stick. This is where it’s good to have an old workspace you don’t care about, since you will get resin places you don’t want.

Once your resin is mixed, grab your paintbrush and start working! I put some resin down on the old fiberglass, then placed the mat on top, then covered the mat in resin until it was soaked. I noticed the mat seemed to break apart if you actually “painted” it, so light strokes and letting the resin drip on it before seemed to keep the mat mostly in tact.

Repeat this for the whole top of the undertray. Let it dry for a while, I think I let it dry about half a day, then flip it over and repeat on the bottom (more visible) side of the undertray.

Once you have all the fiberglass filled in, cut out the excess, I had a lot around my jack points, I kinda wish I cut that before adding resin, because fiberglass is hard to cut.

If you want to make it look nicer, sand it now. Then add a filling primer on both sides, then a final coat of paint on both sides - I used a black semi-gloss.

The end result is GREAT, I am so excited about how much better it looks, and with all of the mounting points actually made of fiberglass now, instead of air, I can mount my undertray easier and without zip ties.

I also purchased Ferrari P/N 062678500 and 64783600, which are both rubber plugs that my undertray was missing that cover the 2 oil drain plugs. It was $13 for those 2 parts from Ricambi.

If you prefer videos, ferrarifxs on Youtube has two great videos on repairing a standard 360 undertray, and a 360 Challenege race car undertray, which is much different than a standard 360 undertray. It has more air vents and some mesh screens.

I replaced the fuel filter in my Cappuccino recently, and also ordered a fuel pump at the same time. This is how to install it.

First, remove your tops (and cargo net if you are lucky enough to have one). Push down the rear window.

Next, you need to remove the plastic center trim piece that sits behind the passengers. There are 4 plastic clips at the top, and 2 Phillips screws at the bottom, which are hidden by the center console. I had to remove 2 screws near the back trim on the center console, slide the back piece of the center console out by holding the switch for the back window down, then I could reach the 2 screws holding the back trim piece.

Next, you need to remove 6x 10mm bolts on the cover.

Then remove the 6x phillips screws on the top of the fuel pump. Be careful not to drop them.

Then remove the 2 fuel lines and label them, and also unclip the electrical connection. This is needed so you can wiggle the pump out.

Now you can remove the fuel pump, make sure to have a bucket or bowl nearby to put this in. I took my fuel pump inside to replace it.

Mine was very rusted, so I cleaned it with a wire brush and water.

There is a 3MM allen screw at the bottom holding the actual pump onto the housing, remove and save that.

Remove your old pump. Re-install the new pump with the rubber housing and fuel pump filter of your choice. Mine came with 2, I used the one that looked like it had more surface area.

For the part leading from the top of the new fuel pump to the metal line on the Cappuccino housing - I used a bit of the rubber hose that came with the new pump, cut down to size so it would fit.

Re-install is just the inverse of the install.

I was quoted $1600 to change my broken pool light housing by my local Pinch a Penny, and that didn’t even include modifying the conduit or existing wiring. So I decided to replace my pool light with a new LED by myself, and spent under $350 on the whole project. I can’t complain about saving $1,300 (at least), plus I know it was done right.

Parts

• 12V LED Pool Light with Transformer - $290
• Project Box - $20
• Power Tester Pen - $15
• Stainless Steel Pool Screw - $7
• Fish Tape - $25
• Assorted Conduit and conduit glue

My existing pool light was broken, and it turned out the seal had broken and the inside was rusted out, so I needed an entire new housing.

The transformer box was also rusted over, and testing the electrical wiring let me find out that the junction box near my pool was not getting power. So that made me think the existing transformer was burned out, so I bought a new LED light with its own transformer. This fits in any 10” pool light opening, and only needed 1 screw to stay mounted. This light can be turned on via switch, which I just leave on, or you can download an app, or use the included remote to turn it on and off and switch colors and settings. I only use the remote.

The wiring was pretty straight forward, and I made sure the part worked before even putting the light in the water, and it wired as I expected.

For safety, always work with the power off, and verify with a power tester pen if power is on. My pool light was actually on a sub-panel I had never noticed, so it was not turned off by any of the breakers in my electrical panel. I cut and pulled out the old light, then started rebuilding the junction box by my pool. It was rusted and ruined and didn’t even have a cover. This part took me the longest, as I had 1/2” conduit going in to 1” conduit right next to each other. It just took a while to build the correct setup for my conduit at Lowes. I also painted it green to match the grass, and will plant some flowers or something around it to hide it.

Once I got that junction box fixed up and sealed with conduit glue, I installed the pool light with a new stainless steel pool screw. I actually used a normal screw until my stainless screws came in, and it rusted within hours.

I pulled the line for the pool light through with a fish tape. Then I pulled that same line to the project box and old transformer area, near my pool pump stuff.

I ended up ripping out my old transformer, but re-used the in ground conduit.

I rebuilt the conduit with a new project box and conduit, then fished the pool light wire to that box. This is where I installed the included transformer.

The 4 pool light wires hooked into the right side of the transformer with 4 wires, just wire nut together the like for like wires. The left side wires are a red/green/white, which I ran through conduit to my pool timer box. The wiring for my light was already in this box, so I followed the wires and reused the same wiring from the previous pool light. It is just power/neutral/ground. Wire nut those together.

Then I tested by flipping on the breaker and the light switch, and it worked! I made sure to seal everything up well, and added silicone and used waterproof seals everywhere I could. I want this light to last as long as possible!

The light looks wonderful at night, has many colors, and lights up the entire pool and even some of the yard. It’s a huge improvement, and I wish I didn’t wait for a year to DIY it.